The Motorcycle Diaries (Part 2)

Sunday 7th October

As part of our in-country training programme, the group had the opportunity to un-learn everything we had learnt to pass our CBT in the UK. I was disappointed to find out that our future motorbikes were not going to be real motorbikes after all but Honda Dreams. Oh well – I’m sure I can still manage to be a Cool Rider on a Honda Dream.

We formed a convoy and followed our tutor to a disused airstrip up the road in order to practice and build up our confidence. I have to say, the journey to the airstrip was more than enough to build or break one’s confidence. Instead of the ‘mirror, signal, life-saver, manoeuvre, life-saver' routine ingrained into memory from my UK CBT, it became more important to dodge cows, use the horn at every opportunity and find the safest position on the road (or off it!) to drive, even if it was the wrong side of the road. We also experienced our first encounter with dirt roads which had become slippery muddy puddles of unknown depths! It was interesting to say the least! My Dream didn’t have any mirrors – apparently they’re not too fashionable in Cambodia – and we got some funny looks for even wearing safety helmets.

So, for an hour or so we zipped up and down the airstrip, weaving in and out of potholes and attracting quite an audience! The roads in Cambodia follow an unspoken hierarchy. If you on a bicycle, you are basically ignored so best not to get in anyone’s way! If on a moto, you are slightly more valued, then a car, truck and then the bigger lorries. Over or under taking is common place even when facing on-coming traffic and the horn is used liberally to warn of you presence on the road. It is also amazing to see what is carried on these modes of transport. I have seen up to 6 people on one moto as well as live pigs being taken to market, rolls of carpet and even a wardrobe! I wondered whether our Cambodian training would include tips on carrying people, animals or pieces of furniture on our motos but evidently VSO do not condone anything other than one other passenger being carried. Thankfully, the Dream I will use over my 2 years belonged to a previous volunteer and has a working horn and side mirrors. It will also have a full service before being handed over to me.