Thursday 28 May 2009

Talking Crap!


Holidays well and truly over, the first week back at work was jam packed with travelling back and forth, meetings and a really bad cold!

The focus of the week's work was a meeting at Tropieng Tmar cluster core school followed by a Student Council Activity day all relating to a sanitation project dreamed up by Deidre (a Peace Corps Volunteer) and I. The idea was born a good few months ago when a troupe of good-hearted, kind-spirited sophomore students from Minnesota, USA, showed up at a local school having provided the cash to build a beautiful toilet building. It was a fantastic gesture and well needed. Their visit also challenged me as it was clear they had no idea of the cultural norm in rural Cambodia and the equal need for education about god sanitation and hygiene practices. Despite Health and Hygiene being one of the 6 Dimensions of the Child Friendly Schools (CFS) Policy the norm as I have observed it in schools is that the toilet buildings are kept locked and the students and teachers defecate and urinate behind the school or in the fields. There seems to be little to no understanding of the potential to spread disease so the traditional habits of old remain even if there is a sanitary toilet to use. I was frustrated at his and my frustration led to a long string of events which culminated in the workshops this week.

Firstly, I spoke about the problem with Mark, my Australian friend who at the time was working with an NGO in Sisaphon. He led me to the monthly meeting in Phnom Penh 'Watsan' (Water Sanitation) which was an NGO forum led by the Department of Rural; Development. Here I presented my problem that schools in rural Cambodia have toilet buildings but lack the eduction to use them. I was showered with various NGO's business cards, initially very excited by the response I got and the opportunity to write a proposal to the Ministry in order to receive funding for a project. Then disappointment set me back a bit - none of the NGOs were actually interested and my problem couldn't match the proposal guidelines. However, after sounding off to fellow volunteers, I found that Deirdre was full of ideas and enthusiasm to do a low-cost sanitation project ourselves.

And voila... after meeting, brainstorming, planning and pondering, we achieved the following... On Thursday we met with school directors, teachers and community members from the 4 schools in Tropieng Tmar cluster. After discussing aims and objectives, the Health Director for the district also turned up and gave a short basic lecture about good hygiene practices, the school groups listed the problems they faced in using the toilet buildings at their schools, the groups were mixed to discuss possible solutions and then wrote action plans directed by Mr Sophan from the DOE. We taught a funny Khmer song about correct toilet use and finally taught a bunch or games and activities relating to the topic.

On Saturday the fun continued with 2 adults from each school leading the Student Council activity day, the whole point being for the adults to educate the students in order to pass on some knowledge and ownership of responsibility. It was hit or miss as we had no translator on the day but we seemed to pull it off! Everyone who was involved participated really positively, the atmosphere was light and fun (Deirdre and I were very good at humiliating ourselves by singing the toilet song with actions, which helped!) and the students were fantastic.

We set up a rotation system for each group to learn and play the games with the adults teaching and supervising. The morning was punctuated with singing the goofy song and the Health Director spoke about hygiene and demonstrated correct hand washing with soap which all the students got to practice. At the end of the morning we held a poster competition and tried to emphasise the importance of each student council spreading what they had experienced with others at their schools.

As we drove away at the end of the morning I tried to describe to Deirdre how I was feeling: a relaxed sense of relief, happiness, achievement, realised it was the feeling of success I was experiencing!! It's been a while! Who knows the long term effect of our efforts, perhaps none! Perhaps all that will be remembered of the day will be 2 barang girls making fools of themselves singing in Khmer. Hey ho! It was fun trying! It was great to have contact with the children, albeit in terribly broken, barely understandable Khmer. Despite some planned follow up visits, for all we know the toilet buildings at these schools may remain locked, just providing a wall to squat behind or piss against. For all we know the soap bars we gave out as gifts tot eh schools, together with toilet brushes and cleaning detergent will collect dust in someone's office or be sold on! Who knows! But for now I'm going to wallow in what a fantastic day it was and in that rare and fleeting feeling calld...er...oh yes, SUCCESS!!

Added note...

And so the feeling of success continued as Vuthang and I conducted some follow up visits to the schools who participated in the project some weeks afterwards to see how the Student Councils were doing at spreading the good news of hygienic practices!




We met schools at their early morning flag raising ceremony and had the Student Councils tell the rest of the school what they had learnt at the Student Council Workshops. We then repeated some of the activities for the whole school to see and taught the song words. Vuthang was a star at encouraging and leading the students and the students themselves were really receptive. One school had already taught the song words to their fellow students And with actions!

Ratanakiri

Thanks to the King's birthday lasting 3 days and as additional public holiday in respect of Royal Ploughing Day (which marks the start of the rice planting season), no sooner had I returned to work than I had the delights of another week off! It is such a hard life here! Not being one to miss an opportunity to travel, I persuaded Cory to join me on a road trip to visit Ratanakiri, the 'Wild East' of Cambodia.

First stop was Siam Reap to say hello and goodbye to Lina and Fed. It was surreal to say the least, to meet up with them, great to catch up with each other and really rather special to reminisce on when I'd left London nearly 2 years ago. They had put me up on their sofa in Streatham for my last weeks in the country and had shared much of my excitement and worries int eh final preparation to leave the country, including my motobike training. In fact, it was on their computer in their flat with their cat on my lap (or trying to bite my toes, depending on what mood she was in!) that I had typed the the first entries of this very blog. It feels like a lifetime ago.

From Siam Reap we made the long journey south to Kampong Cham where I spent a month in language training at the very beginning of my placement. We then headed north-east to Kratie (pronounced Kra-cheh) where we stayed a few nights with some other volunteers. Kratie is a sleepy, pretty town with a lovely riverfront and many colonial buildings remaining from when the French inhabited the country having been spared a lot of bomb damage during the war years which destroyed a lot of other provincial towns. It was one of the first towns to be ‘liberated’ by the Khmer Rouge (actually it was the North Vietnamese, but the Khmer Rouge later took the credit) in the summer of 1970.

We spent a day sweating on bicycles to visit a gorgeous island in the middle of the Mekong as well as taking a boat trip to catch glimpses of the allusive and rare Irrawaddy dolphins. Apparently there are only between 60 and 70 animals left in these parts. An already endangered species, they are now termed a species in distress in Cambodia. They are intelligent creatures and apparently aware of their dwindling numbers and therefore have stopped breeding. We pondered whether to visit them at all as some reports suggest the tourist trade has become a factor in their demise but we were assured that if we went with a responsible boat who cut its engine rather than trying to get closer and closer to the shy creatures then we could do little harm. It was so very peaceful after the boat had cut its engine and we drifted for perhaps an hour as the dolphins swam around us, cautiously breaking the surface of the waters every now and then.

Onwards to Ratanakiri and we were made aware of the difference between this area and the parts of Cambodia we are more used to. The main road became a bumpy dirt road for a good few hours and we were surrounded by forest. Lazy, I know but here's what the Lonely Planet had to say... "Tourism is set to take off, but that is if the lowland politicians and generals don’t plunder the place first. Ratanakiri is the frontline in the battle for land, and the slash-and-burn minorities are losing out thanks to their tradition of collective ownership. The forest is disappearing at an alarming and accelerating rate, replaced by rubber plantations and cashew-nut farms. It is to be hoped someone wakes up and smells the coffee – there’s plenty of that as well – before it’s too late." So, a really beautiful place which will either take off and become another reason for Cambodian's to feel pride in their country... or it's natural beauty will be raped and sold off as with many other places in the country!

We were lucky to be able to stay in another volunteer's house in Banlung (provincial town of Ratanakiri) and we enjoyed the simple wooden Khmer style house and its gorgeous balcony for four days with a touch of envy it must be said. The resident volunteer gets to enjoy it all the time and watch the sunset over the hills and forests from the balcony every night. It was a tad different to Sisaphon and Phnom Srok! All in all, a very relaxing place where we ate a lot of avocados (Banlung market was inundated with them! - the first time I have seen them in Cambodia!) and hired a motobike to explore the countryside. We explored beautiful waterfalls, met some elephants and traditional ethnic villagers and visited the volcanic crater lake Boeng Yeak Lom a few times. The lake is magically beautiful, perfectly round with gorgeous clear water. We attempted a jog round the perimeter and managed about half way before walking became a more comfortable option, then enjoyed a swim in the cool waters.

Finally reaching the end of the holiday season and stopping off for a Phnom Penh party on the way home, we had managed to tour through the whole country in one week! I found myself looking forward to getting stuck back into Phnom Srok life again.

Room Rates

Our adventures together in Laos and Cambodia gave us many many new experiences and we really managed to cram in a lot over the three weeks. For example, our travels included the following...




  • Number of days on holiday - 24


  • Number of hotels/guesthouses - 7


  • Number of beds slept in - 11


  • Different modes of transport - 8


  • Number of people to share one moto - 3


  • Number of people to share one boat built for 100 - 3


  • Number of languages spoken or attempted - 4

  • Number of currencies in Dad's wallet - 5

  • Number of mosquito bites - 354 (between the three of us)


Biggest Irritations:



  • Sharing dinner with swarms of flies and other insects

  • The ill-fitting door to our room at the poshest of hotels!


  • Some of the intrusive wildlife at the Boat Landing guesthouse


  • Not being able to speak the language in Laos


  • A certain guesthouse proprietor who was all smiles but turned out to be the full of rubbish!


  • Dad's stinky feet


Biggest Reliefs:



  • the end of the one-day trek


  • finding chocolate cake and Abba music half way down the Mekong


  • air conditioning


  • Tiger Balm on those blinking mozzie bites


  • getting off the motodops at the end of the day's tour in Battambang


  • every time we arrived at the Green Garden Home Guesthouse in Siam Reap, a home from home


  • The swimming pool at the Green Garden Home Guesthouse

We also took great joy in developing our own personal Room Rating system which became necessary when we realised how little you can trust the guidebooks at times. We did learn that even with the most current, up-to-date guidebooks, an empty restaurant and a gut feeling is to be taken as a sure sign of a less than successful place to spend time, let alone eat, despite what the guidebooks might say to the contrary.


So, all the guesthouses and hotels we stayed in were rated, after we had left them, according to the following criteria: Service, Facilities, Comfort and Location, with an easy 1-5 scoring system: 5 = exceptional with that little something extra, 4 = really very good, nothing to complain about, 3 = fits the bill but no frills, 2 = poor standards with definitely nothing to write home about, 1 = terrible!












































































































































































































































































Guesthouse/Hotel




No. of nights




Service




Facilities




Comfort




Location




Other Comments




Green Garden Home, Siam Reap, Cambodia




6




4




5




(swimming pool!!)




5




4




Home from home. The friendliest staff and a warm welcome everytime we arrived (3 separate times)




My house, Phnom Srok District, Cambodia




2




2




(DIY)




1




1




4




Perfect for exploring daily village life and mixing with the locals as long as no travel after dark! Uncomfortable nights as no electricity to power fans and noisy dogs




Rachael’s House, Sisaphon, Cambodia




3




2




(DIY)




3




3




4




The only place we stayed with a huge events room!




Royal Hotel, Battambang, Cambodia




1




3




3.5




4




4




Lovely rooftop restaurant view of the city




Lani Guesthouse, Vientiene, Laos




2




2




2.5




3




4




Mimumum in service and facilities. Nice and quiet but void of life at times apart from friendly font desk man.




Boat Landing, Luang Namtha, Laos




4




4




4




4.5




5




A wonderful eco-friendly example of responsible tourism in a developing country. Gorgeous garden setting, lots of wildlife and the best food of our trip. Would highly recommend this one!




Arimid Guesthouse, Huay Xey, Laos




1




1




2




2




3




Disappointing! Thankfully only a pitstop at the border. Initially very friendly proprieter turned out to be not all as he seemed




Villa Salika, Pak Beng, Laos




1




1.5




1




2




4




Perfect location but that's about it!




Bel Air Resort, Luang Prabang, Laos




4




4.5




4.5




4




3.5




An exceptional hotel with complimentary laptop and Wifi in every room. Slightly awkward location and shame about the front door but otherwise perfect!
















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Granted, guesthouses and hotel are to suit your needs and each one did just that. Some we stayed in only one night, just because we had to and they did the job. The ones we stayed in for longer we were more than satisfied with! I wonder if this information will be helpful to anyone else!?




My brother wrote to me recently and mused that during my 2 years away from family and friends and everything that I recognise as home in England, that I might be the one developing my relationships and getting to know family members and friends more deeply. I think its true. Friends who have written letters or emails seem to open up more than they might in a face to face interaction. There's something less threatening or more comfortable for some in penning thoughts on a page rather than speaking to someone directly. But I have also been very fortunate in sharing holidays with many friends and family who have managed to fly out to see me here. This has provided lengthy periods of time with people I may not have had the chance to holiday with in the same way had I been at home. There is also t'he sense of neutrality that South-East Asia offers those from the west, making it a place of reflection and perhaps easier to have more intense conversations. I haven't made it back to the UK in the whole 2 years I have been here and at times that has been really hard, so I am even more grateful to those who have spent the time, effort and money coming to see me: Ruth, Mads, Mum, Kate, Dad and Colette, Lina and Fed - thank you all so much! Dad, Colette and I enjoyed some conversation topics we haven't really touched upon in my whole 30 years of existance. I learnt important, challenging and enlightening things about them both and about myself and I am still reflecting on the very special time we spent together.




Highlights (other than spending 24/7 with yours truely of course):



  • The day on motodops exploring the delights of Battambang


  • All the Angkorian temples


  • The range of excellent food


  • Luang Prabang in Laos


  • Experiencing ethnic village life at Ban Sida, Luang Namtha, Laos (but not the trek there)