Having a day off from language training meant that we could spend the day doing whatever we wanted to. Some of us decided to take our bicycles across the Mekong River to a small island called Koh Paen. During the dry season, access to the island is by a bamboo bridge which gets rebuilt each year when the river is so much narrower. However, during the wet season (which we are still just about in) access is via ferry. Well, when I say ferry, I actually mean two wooden boats nailed together with a raft type affair with dodgy-looking petrol motor and what looked like a 17 year old pilot. Some people in the group declined from the day trip simply because of the state of the ferry but after watching the locals board it with confidence (and motorbikes, sacks of rice, small children and the like), the hardcore adventure seekers (yes, including me!) got aboard! The boat waited until it was full before setting sail which meant we could enjoy watching some eager fishermen catch their supper and chat with the spectators we seem to attract wherever we go.
And what a beautiful island we entered! We cycled down the main road which was as wide as a single lane with beautiful wooden houses on either side, many growing rice in the front garden. We heard shouts of ‘hello’ from all the children we passed – which was many – and high-fived their expectant hands as we rode past. What struck me was the absolute simplicity of life on this island (as I have observed in much of Cambodia so far) and how every face is smiling. When I compare the children I saw here with the children I know in the UK, they appear to be richer here in so many ways! They share their beautiful world with dogs, chickens, cows and each other; they play and share with each other and work really hard because they just have to; they have so much space to enjoy without parameters or health and safety regulations; they swim in the river, ride the backs of water buffalo and play with their neighbours in the streets. And they are so overwhelmingly friendly and happy! It’s hard not to wonder who is better off.
Obviously this is an impression of Cambodia which makes it such a wonderful place to be in. In reality these people face so much hardship. The children have to pay to go to school to subsidise their teachers’ wages because they are so badly paid (or not at all) or are still paying off the fee they had to pay in order to get the job in the first place. There is also a huge (and growing) issue of child prostitution because sometimes it might seem like the only option facing families in financial difficulties and lots of children who are orphaned or abandoned. It makes it all the more amazing that their smiles remain so constant.
Our cycle tour of this island was lovely and we definitely had a mini-adventure! We even took a road slightly more off the beaten track which took us through even more examples of country life in Cambodia. When the not-so-beaten track turned into a field with no track at all we really thought we were being adventurous until someone remembered the warnings about straying from the path in Cambodia’s countryside! Our last day of in-country training (Friday – not that I’m counting the days!) is based at a Landmine training centre in Kampong Chhnam and it would’ve been such a shame to miss it. With this in mind, we headed back to the beaten track and took our chances with dodging cows, dogs and small children rather than dodging imaginary mines (I’m almost positive it wasn’t a landmine but it sounds quite dramatic!).
And then came the ferry back to Kampong Cham and a quick pit-stop for a gin and tonic on the way home to dinner. There are 5 more days of in-country training left – phew! and then it’s back to Phnom Penh for some panic shopping before travelling with all my worldly possessions to the final destination: Phnom Srok, to start work on 1st November. I’m really looking forward to settling for a bit and finally unpacking my bags properly for the first time since the end of July!
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